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KX1 Battery Pack Connection Broke

Matt Hancock
Hi there,

I recently purchased a slightly used KX1.

Went to use it in the field last week, and as I was popping in
batteries to the internal pack, the red wire broke at the point at
which it it is soldered to the little whit clip that connects to the
transceiver.

Can I easily replace the battery pack with a new one?

73,

Matt, AC9BQ

Sent from my iPhone
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Re: KX1 Battery Pack Connection Broke

Don Wilhelm-4
Matt,

I would cut the black wire off at the same point, then order 2 of the
crimp pins and if you cannot get the old pins out of the housing, order
a new housing too.

See the KX1 manual for assembly of the housing.

It makes no sense to me to replace the entire battery pack, you would
just have to assemble it even with all new parts.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/8/2012 8:06 PM, Matt Hancock wrote:

> Hi there,
>
> I recently purchased a slightly used KX1.
>
> Went to use it in the field last week, and as I was popping in
> batteries to the internal pack, the red wire broke at the point at
> which it it is soldered to the little whit clip that connects to the
> transceiver.
>
> Can I easily replace the battery pack with a new one?
>
> 73,
>
> Matt, AC9BQ
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>

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Re: KX1 Battery Pack Connection Broke

Matt Hancock
That sounds like a good idea. Just to be clear, the second set of crimp
pins would plug into the first set, in the housing, thereby giving the
leads enough space to bend when the back cover is opened and I'm replacing
the batteries?

... Matt

On Thu, Aug 9, 2012 at 7:23 AM, Don Wilhelm <[hidden email]> wrote:

> Matt,
>
> I would cut the black wire off at the same point, then order 2 of the
> crimp pins and if you cannot get the old pins out of the housing, order a
> new housing too.
>
> See the KX1 manual for assembly of the housing.
>
> It makes no sense to me to replace the entire battery pack, you would just
> have to assemble it even with all new parts.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
>
> On 8/8/2012 8:06 PM, Matt Hancock wrote:
>
>> Hi there,
>>
>> I recently purchased a slightly used KX1.
>>
>> Went to use it in the field last week, and as I was popping in
>> batteries to the internal pack, the red wire broke at the point at
>> which it it is soldered to the little whit clip that connects to the
>> transceiver.
>>
>> Can I easily replace the battery pack with a new one?
>>
>> 73,
>>
>> Matt, AC9BQ
>>
>> Sent from my iPhone
>> ______________________________**______________________________**__
>> Elecraft mailing list
>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/**mailman/listinfo/elecraft<http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft>
>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.**htm<http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm>
>> Post: mailto:[hidden email].**net <[hidden email]>
>>
>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>>
>>
>


--
matthancock.blogspot.com
twitter.com/mwhancock
ac9bq <http://www.qrz.com/db/AC9BQ>
(773) 609-1697
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Re: KX1 Battery Pack Connection Broke

Don Wilhelm-4
Matt,

If I understand you correctly, the answer is no, you would cut off the
old crimp pins and solder the wires to the new ones.  There is a diagram
in the Final Assembly section of the manual.
If (and only if) you have the proper crimping tool, you may crimp the
leads instead of soldering, but very few have that tool.

The leads must be short - there is not much extra space inside the KX1.-
only about 1 1/2 inches should be free.  When you remove the back to
change the batteries, you would normally just remove the connector from
the KX1 board.

Many builders do not insert the crimp pins into the housing correctly.

There are small tabs that must lock into the rectangular holes in the
back of the housing.  You must slide the crimp pins in with some
pressure toward that side of the housing - there are slots on the inside
of the housing where the "flanges" of the crimp pin slide.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/9/2012 12:00 PM, Matt Hancock wrote:

> That sounds like a good idea. Just to be clear, the second set of crimp
> pins would plug into the first set, in the housing, thereby giving the
> leads enough space to bend when the back cover is opened and I'm replacing
> the batteries?
>
> ... Matt
>
> On Thu, Aug 9, 2012 at 7:23 AM, Don Wilhelm <[hidden email]> wrote:
>
>> Matt,
>>
>> I would cut the black wire off at the same point, then order 2 of the
>> crimp pins and if you cannot get the old pins out of the housing, order a
>> new housing too.
>>
>> See the KX1 manual for assembly of the housing.
>>
>> It makes no sense to me to replace the entire battery pack, you would just
>> have to assemble it even with all new parts.
>>
>> 73,
>> Don W3FPR
>>
>>
>> On 8/8/2012 8:06 PM, Matt Hancock wrote:
>>
>>> Hi there,
>>>
>>> I recently purchased a slightly used KX1.
>>>
>>> Went to use it in the field last week, and as I was popping in
>>> batteries to the internal pack, the red wire broke at the point at
>>> which it it is soldered to the little whit clip that connects to the
>>> transceiver.
>>>
>>> Can I easily replace the battery pack with a new one?
>>>
>>> 73,
>>>
>>> Matt, AC9BQ
>>>
>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>> ______________________________**______________________________**__
>>> Elecraft mailing list
>>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/**mailman/listinfo/elecraft<http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft>
>>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.**htm<http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm>
>>> Post: mailto:[hidden email].**net <[hidden email]>
>>>
>>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>>>
>>>
>

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Re: KX1 Battery Pack Connection Broke

Matt Hancock
Got it. Bottom line is, even after cutting and adding the new crimp
pins, I'll have enough wire to open the back.

Will make sure to disconnect the connector from the board when opening
up in the future!

... Matt

Sent from my iPhone

On Aug 9, 2012, at 12:10 PM, Don Wilhelm <[hidden email]> wrote:

> Matt,
>
> If I understand you correctly, the answer is no, you would cut off the old crimp pins and solder the wires to the new ones.  There is a diagram in the Final Assembly section of the manual.
> If (and only if) you have the proper crimping tool, you may crimp the leads instead of soldering, but very few have that tool.
>
> The leads must be short - there is not much extra space inside the KX1.- only about 1 1/2 inches should be free.  When you remove the back to change the batteries, you would normally just remove the connector from the KX1 board.
>
> Many builders do not insert the crimp pins into the housing correctly.
>
> There are small tabs that must lock into the rectangular holes in the back of the housing.  You must slide the crimp pins in with some pressure toward that side of the housing - there are slots on the inside of the housing where the "flanges" of the crimp pin slide.
>
> 73,
> Don W3FPR
>
> On 8/9/2012 12:00 PM, Matt Hancock wrote:
>> That sounds like a good idea. Just to be clear, the second set of crimp
>> pins would plug into the first set, in the housing, thereby giving the
>> leads enough space to bend when the back cover is opened and I'm replacing
>> the batteries?
>>
>> ... Matt
>>
>> On Thu, Aug 9, 2012 at 7:23 AM, Don Wilhelm <[hidden email]> wrote:
>>
>>> Matt,
>>>
>>> I would cut the black wire off at the same point, then order 2 of the
>>> crimp pins and if you cannot get the old pins out of the housing, order a
>>> new housing too.
>>>
>>> See the KX1 manual for assembly of the housing.
>>>
>>> It makes no sense to me to replace the entire battery pack, you would just
>>> have to assemble it even with all new parts.
>>>
>>> 73,
>>> Don W3FPR
>>>
>>>
>>> On 8/8/2012 8:06 PM, Matt Hancock wrote:
>>>
>>>> Hi there,
>>>>
>>>> I recently purchased a slightly used KX1.
>>>>
>>>> Went to use it in the field last week, and as I was popping in
>>>> batteries to the internal pack, the red wire broke at the point at
>>>> which it it is soldered to the little whit clip that connects to the
>>>> transceiver.
>>>>
>>>> Can I easily replace the battery pack with a new one?
>>>>
>>>> 73,
>>>>
>>>> Matt, AC9BQ
>>>>
>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>> ______________________________**______________________________**__
>>>> Elecraft mailing list
>>>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/**mailman/listinfo/elecraft<http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft>
>>>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.**htm<http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm>
>>>> Post: mailto:[hidden email].**net <[hidden email]>
>>>>
>>>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>>>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>>>>
>>>>
>>
>
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Re: KX1 Battery Pack Connection Broke

Don Wilhelm-4
Matt,

If your wire leads are more than 1.5 inches long, the original builder
did not dress the wires under the battery holders correctly. refer to
the manual instructions for the battery holder installation for the
proper way to route the battery wires.

Properly routed, the connector pulls off when you remove the back cover,
and it is easy to put back on its mating connector after you change the
batteries.  If the wires are not routed properly, you have to "fuss"
with them every time you remove/replace the back cover.

Yes,many builders have trouble with not only the proper installation of
the crimp pins, but also the routing of the battery wires.  My method is
to mount the right battery holder, then push its red wire under the
holder (up to the point where the heat-shrink has been added), then hold
the black wire from the left battery holder under the holder in
approximately the correct position and fasten that holder loosely with
the screw closest to the edge of the cover.
Now, you can fiddle with the wires - the black one from the right holder
is routed around the corner of the holder - that is usually not a
problem.  The black wire from the right holder is routed outside the
black wire from the left one, and goes behind the mounting foot
projection - you can lift the edge of the battery holder a bit and slide
a thin screwdriver point in to position that wire.  The short red wire
from the left holder goes under the holder and behind the round tab,
exiting the battery holder about the same place as the black wire.

Look at the diagram in the manual.

If your wires are not routed like that, I strongly recommend you arrange
then that way - they will give you fewer problems in the future.

On 8/9/2012 6:25 PM, Matt Hancock wrote:

> Got it. Bottom line is, even after cutting and adding the new crimp
> pins, I'll have enough wire to open the back.
>
> Will make sure to disconnect the connector from the board when opening
> up in the future!
>
> ... Matt
>
> Sent from my iPhone
>
> On Aug 9, 2012, at 12:10 PM, Don Wilhelm <[hidden email]> wrote:
>
>> Matt,
>>
>> If I understand you correctly, the answer is no, you would cut off the old crimp pins and solder the wires to the new ones.  There is a diagram in the Final Assembly section of the manual.
>> If (and only if) you have the proper crimping tool, you may crimp the leads instead of soldering, but very few have that tool.
>>
>> The leads must be short - there is not much extra space inside the KX1.- only about 1 1/2 inches should be free.  When you remove the back to change the batteries, you would normally just remove the connector from the KX1 board.
>>
>> Many builders do not insert the crimp pins into the housing correctly.
>>
>> There are small tabs that must lock into the rectangular holes in the back of the housing.  You must slide the crimp pins in with some pressure toward that side of the housing - there are slots on the inside of the housing where the "flanges" of the crimp pin slide.
>>
>> 73,
>> Don W3FPR
>>
>> On 8/9/2012 12:00 PM, Matt Hancock wrote:
>>> That sounds like a good idea. Just to be clear, the second set of crimp
>>> pins would plug into the first set, in the housing, thereby giving the
>>> leads enough space to bend when the back cover is opened and I'm replacing
>>> the batteries?
>>>
>>> ... Matt
>>>
>>> On Thu, Aug 9, 2012 at 7:23 AM, Don Wilhelm <[hidden email]> wrote:
>>>
>>>> Matt,
>>>>
>>>> I would cut the black wire off at the same point, then order 2 of the
>>>> crimp pins and if you cannot get the old pins out of the housing, order a
>>>> new housing too.
>>>>
>>>> See the KX1 manual for assembly of the housing.
>>>>
>>>> It makes no sense to me to replace the entire battery pack, you would just
>>>> have to assemble it even with all new parts.
>>>>
>>>> 73,
>>>> Don W3FPR
>>>>
>>>>
>>>> On 8/8/2012 8:06 PM, Matt Hancock wrote:
>>>>
>>>>> Hi there,
>>>>>
>>>>> I recently purchased a slightly used KX1.
>>>>>
>>>>> Went to use it in the field last week, and as I was popping in
>>>>> batteries to the internal pack, the red wire broke at the point at
>>>>> which it it is soldered to the little whit clip that connects to the
>>>>> transceiver.
>>>>>
>>>>> Can I easily replace the battery pack with a new one?
>>>>>
>>>>> 73,
>>>>>
>>>>> Matt, AC9BQ
>>>>>
>>>>> Sent from my iPhone
>>>>> ______________________________**______________________________**__
>>>>> Elecraft mailing list
>>>>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/**mailman/listinfo/elecraft<http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft>
>>>>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.**htm<http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm>
>>>>> Post: mailto:[hidden email].**net <[hidden email]>
>>>>>
>>>>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>>>>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>>>>>
>>>>>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
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>
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> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>

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Re: KX1 Battery Pack Connection Broke

Don Wilhelm-4
In reply to this post by Matt Hancock
Of course, Ron is correct, those crimp pins can be removed from the
housing, but I have seen many that had the crimp pins mangled so neither
the crimp pins nor the housing were able to be salvaged.

As far as removing the back without popping the connector, yes, it can
be done, but the connector is so easy to put back on, and it takes a lot
of care to keep it connected, I just "simplify" and remove the connector
when the back is removed.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 8/9/2012 6:53 PM, Ron D'Eau Claire wrote:

> Matt, if you look at the connector, you'll see that there is a little
> locking tab on the side of the connector opposite the "ears". If you press
> down on the tab so it no longer hits the connector housing, then push back,
> you should be able to remove the old female connectors easily. I've done
> that and, with careful soldering, salvaged the existing connectors to attach
> to new wires.
>
> When you reinsert the connectors in the housing, be sure those springy
> locking tabs pop up to positively lock each connector in the housing. If
> they won't insert far enough, it's certain you have too much solder on the
> connection.
>
> My KX1 has the "stock" battery wire length and I have plenty of room to open
> the back and lay it end-to-end next to the front panel to change batteries
> without even disconnecting the battery cable, although unplugging it and
> replacing it is no problem at all.
>
> 73, Ron AC7AC
>

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