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Sub Receiver & KBPF3

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Sub Receiver & KBPF3

wa9fvp
I just installed the Sub receiver and the KBPF3A in my K3S.  I have one complaint and one concern.

First the activation of the KBPF3A is very vague.  It's mentioned in the users manual on page 60 (the configuration menu) but there's nothing that says, while in (CONFIG:KBFP3) that you have to press [SUB] and then select "nor".  I double checked the installation manual for the sub receiver and the KBFP3A but there was nothing about activating the General Coverage filters.

My concern is;  I consider myself as an experienced kit builder but for me, it was a bit difficult installing the Sub-Receiver.  The TMP cables were in the way and sub-receiver box was a bit difficult getting the SUBIN and SUBOUT boards to align and mate properly.  Someone who is new to kit building would have a more difficult time.

The sub-receiver is working great and the one thing I like about it is; it's a clone of the main receiver with FM, AM, 2.8, 400 and 250Hz filters.  I wonder how the sub-receiver would stack-up on Sherwood Engineering's test data.

Jack WA9FVP
Willco Electronics
Jack WA9FVP

Sent from my home-brew I5 Core PC
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Re: Sub Receiver & KBPF3

Christopher Hoover
>
> The TMP cables were in the way and sub-receiver box was a bit difficult
> getting the SUBIN and SUBOUT boards to align and mate properly.


I installed mine myself too.    (And I just r/r recently with the addition
of the gen coverage bp filters on the main board.)   It is certainly
fiddly.  The mechanical design leaves much to be desired.

73, Christopher  AI6KG.

On Sun, Apr 16, 2017 at 4:27 AM, wa9fvp <[hidden email]> wrote:

> I just installed the Sub receiver and the KBPF3A in my K3S.  I have one
> complaint and one concern.
>
> First the activation of the KBPF3A is very vague.  It's mentioned in the
> users manual on page 60 (the configuration menu) but there's nothing that
> says, while in (CONFIG:KBFP3) that you have to press [SUB] and then select
> "nor".  I double checked the installation manual for the sub receiver and
> the KBFP3A but there was nothing about activating the General Coverage
> filters.
>
> My concern is;  I consider myself as an experienced kit builder but for me,
> it was a bit difficult installing the Sub-Receiver.  The TMP cables were in
> the way and sub-receiver box was a bit difficult getting the SUBIN and
> SUBOUT boards to align and mate properly.  Someone who is new to kit
> building would have a more difficult time.
>
> The sub-receiver is working great and the one thing I like about it is;
> it's
> a clone of the main receiver with FM, AM, 2.8, 400 and 250Hz filters.  I
> wonder how the sub-receiver would stack-up on Sherwood Engineering's test
> data.
>
> Jack WA9FVP
> Willco Electronics
>
>
>
> -----
> Jack WA9FVP
>
> Sent from my home-brew I5 Core PC
> --
> View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.
> nabble.com/Sub-Receiver-KBPF3-tp7629327.html
> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to [hidden email]
>
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Re: Sub Receiver & KBPF3

Nr4c
Really?  I have been quite please at the mechanical design of my Elecraft gear.

Yes, the sub-Rec is a bit tricky to align but with a bit of care and I remove the side panel (with handle) for better view.

Sent from my iPhone
...nr4c. bill


On Apr 18, 2017, at 11:58 PM, Christopher Hoover <[hidden email]> wrote:

>>
>> The TMP cables were in the way and sub-receiver box was a bit difficult
>> getting the SUBIN and SUBOUT boards to align and mate properly.
>
>
> I installed mine myself too.    (And I just r/r recently with the addition
> of the gen coverage bp filters on the main board.)   It is certainly
> fiddly.  The mechanical design leaves much to be desired.
>
> 73, Christopher  AI6KG.
>
>> On Sun, Apr 16, 2017 at 4:27 AM, wa9fvp <[hidden email]> wrote:
>>
>> I just installed the Sub receiver and the KBPF3A in my K3S.  I have one
>> complaint and one concern.
>>
>> First the activation of the KBPF3A is very vague.  It's mentioned in the
>> users manual on page 60 (the configuration menu) but there's nothing that
>> says, while in (CONFIG:KBFP3) that you have to press [SUB] and then select
>> "nor".  I double checked the installation manual for the sub receiver and
>> the KBFP3A but there was nothing about activating the General Coverage
>> filters.
>>
>> My concern is;  I consider myself as an experienced kit builder but for me,
>> it was a bit difficult installing the Sub-Receiver.  The TMP cables were in
>> the way and sub-receiver box was a bit difficult getting the SUBIN and
>> SUBOUT boards to align and mate properly.  Someone who is new to kit
>> building would have a more difficult time.
>>
>> The sub-receiver is working great and the one thing I like about it is;
>> it's
>> a clone of the main receiver with FM, AM, 2.8, 400 and 250Hz filters.  I
>> wonder how the sub-receiver would stack-up on Sherwood Engineering's test
>> data.
>>
>> Jack WA9FVP
>> Willco Electronics
>>
>>
>>
>> -----
>> Jack WA9FVP
>>
>> Sent from my home-brew I5 Core PC
>> --
>> View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.
>> nabble.com/Sub-Receiver-KBPF3-tp7629327.html
>> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
>> ______________________________________________________________
>> Elecraft mailing list
>> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
>> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
>> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>>
>> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
>> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
>> Message delivered to [hidden email]
>>
> ______________________________________________________________
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> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
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> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
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Re: Sub Receiver & KBPF3

Ron Wilcox
I have a medical background, this was my first kit of any kind to do with
electronics. While I did not find it easy, I had no problems putting it
together. However it was not intuitive for me and had to study (not just
read) the instructions very carefully, and usually more than once or twice.

Today is a good day to have a Great Day!
73       Ron Wilcox KF7ZN

On Wed, Apr 19, 2017 at 7:30 AM, Nr4c <[hidden email]> wrote:

> Really?  I have been quite please at the mechanical design of my Elecraft
> gear.
>
> Yes, the sub-Rec is a bit tricky to align but with a bit of care and I
> remove the side panel (with handle) for better view.
>
> Sent from my iPhone
> ...nr4c. bill
>
>
> On Apr 18, 2017, at 11:58 PM, Christopher Hoover <[hidden email]>
> wrote:
>
> >>
> >> The TMP cables were in the way and sub-receiver box was a bit difficult
> >> getting the SUBIN and SUBOUT boards to align and mate properly.
> >
> >
> > I installed mine myself too.    (And I just r/r recently with the
> addition
> > of the gen coverage bp filters on the main board.)   It is certainly
> > fiddly.  The mechanical design leaves much to be desired.
> >
> > 73, Christopher  AI6KG.
> >
> >> On Sun, Apr 16, 2017 at 4:27 AM, wa9fvp <[hidden email]> wrote:
> >>
> >> I just installed the Sub receiver and the KBPF3A in my K3S.  I have one
> >> complaint and one concern.
> >>
> >> First the activation of the KBPF3A is very vague.  It's mentioned in the
> >> users manual on page 60 (the configuration menu) but there's nothing
> that
> >> says, while in (CONFIG:KBFP3) that you have to press [SUB] and then
> select
> >> "nor".  I double checked the installation manual for the sub receiver
> and
> >> the KBFP3A but there was nothing about activating the General Coverage
> >> filters.
> >>
> >> My concern is;  I consider myself as an experienced kit builder but for
> me,
> >> it was a bit difficult installing the Sub-Receiver.  The TMP cables
> were in
> >> the way and sub-receiver box was a bit difficult getting the SUBIN and
> >> SUBOUT boards to align and mate properly.  Someone who is new to kit
> >> building would have a more difficult time.
> >>
> >> The sub-receiver is working great and the one thing I like about it is;
> >> it's
> >> a clone of the main receiver with FM, AM, 2.8, 400 and 250Hz filters.  I
> >> wonder how the sub-receiver would stack-up on Sherwood Engineering's
> test
> >> data.
> >>
> >> Jack WA9FVP
> >> Willco Electronics
> >>
> >>
> >>
> >> -----
> >> Jack WA9FVP
> >>
> >> Sent from my home-brew I5 Core PC
> >> --
> >> View this message in context: http://elecraft.365791.n2.
> >> nabble.com/Sub-Receiver-KBPF3-tp7629327.html
> >> Sent from the Elecraft mailing list archive at Nabble.com.
> >> ______________________________________________________________
> >> Elecraft mailing list
> >> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> >> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> >> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
> >>
> >> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> >> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> >> Message delivered to [hidden email]
> >>
> > ______________________________________________________________
> > Elecraft mailing list
> > Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> > Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> > Post: mailto:[hidden email]
> >
> > This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> > Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> > Message delivered to [hidden email]
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to [hidden email]
>
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Re: Sub Receiver & KBPF3

Clay Autery
In reply to this post by Christopher Hoover
Funny....  IMO, some of the best design work I've ever seen....
especially considering the package volume vs. modularity and capability.

However, I WILL confess....

I now own my own TMP tool, TMP connectors, coax stock, and assorted
second end connectors in case I need/want to make one of those cables...

I have not yet needed to make a cable for my own use.  But I've made a
bunch for other folks,

73,

______________________
Clay Autery, KY5G
MONTAC Enterprises
(318) 518-1389

On 4/18/2017 10:58 PM, Christopher Hoover wrote:

>> The TMP cables were in the way and sub-receiver box was a bit difficult
>> getting the SUBIN and SUBOUT boards to align and mate properly.
>
> I installed mine myself too.    (And I just r/r recently with the addition
> of the gen coverage bp filters on the main board.)   It is certainly
> fiddly.  The mechanical design leaves much to be desired.
>
> 73, Christopher  AI6KG.
>
> On Sun, Apr 16, 2017 at 4:27 AM, wa9fvp <[hidden email]> wrote:
______________________________________________________________
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Re: Sub Receiver & KBPF3

George Thornton
I have built several kits of all kinds going back to Heathkit days and I built my own K2.

I had a lot of problems with the sub-Rx installation.  I have big hands and could not seem to be able to see to line things up properly, not to mention the pesky TMP connectors.

I am at the point with this where I will no longer attempt any mod that requires removal of the Sub-Rx.  Everything goes back to the factory.

From: Elecraft [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Clay Autery
Sent: Wednesday, April 19, 2017 12:08 PM
To: [hidden email]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Sub Receiver & KBPF3

Funny.... IMO, some of the best design work I've ever seen....
especially considering the package volume vs. modularity and capability.

However, I WILL confess....

I now own my own TMP tool, TMP connectors, coax stock, and assorted
second end connectors in case I need/want to make one of those cables...

I have not yet needed to make a cable for my own use. But I've made a
bunch for other folks,

73,

______________________
Clay Autery, KY5G
MONTAC Enterprises
(318) 518-1389

On 4/18/2017 10:58 PM, Christopher Hoover wrote:

>> The TMP cables were in the way and sub-receiver box was a bit difficult
>> getting the SUBIN and SUBOUT boards to align and mate properly.
>
> I installed mine myself too. (And I just r/r recently with the addition
> of the gen coverage bp filters on the main board.) It is certainly
> fiddly. The mechanical design leaves much to be desired.
>
> 73, Christopher AI6KG.
>
> On Sun, Apr 16, 2017 at 4:27 AM, wa9fvp <[hidden email]><mailto:[hidden email]%3e> wrote:
______________________________________________________________
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Post: mailto:[hidden email]

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Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
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Re: Sub Receiver & KBPF3

Bob Novas
Messing with the sub-receiver is such a PITA that I will procrastinate
putting a new filter in for weeks before I gather the courage to pull it
apart.  

Bob W3DK

-----Original Message-----
From: Elecraft [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of George
Thornton
Sent: Wednesday, April 19, 2017 3:21 PM
To: Clay Autery; [hidden email]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Sub Receiver & KBPF3

I have built several kits of all kinds going back to Heathkit days and I
built my own K2.

I had a lot of problems with the sub-Rx installation.  I have big hands and
could not seem to be able to see to line things up properly, not to mention
the pesky TMP connectors.

I am at the point with this where I will no longer attempt any mod that
requires removal of the Sub-Rx.  Everything goes back to the factory.

From: Elecraft [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Clay
Autery
Sent: Wednesday, April 19, 2017 12:08 PM
To: [hidden email]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Sub Receiver & KBPF3

Funny.... IMO, some of the best design work I've ever seen....
especially considering the package volume vs. modularity and capability.

However, I WILL confess....

I now own my own TMP tool, TMP connectors, coax stock, and assorted second
end connectors in case I need/want to make one of those cables...

I have not yet needed to make a cable for my own use. But I've made a bunch
for other folks,

73,

______________________
Clay Autery, KY5G
MONTAC Enterprises
(318) 518-1389

On 4/18/2017 10:58 PM, Christopher Hoover wrote:

>> The TMP cables were in the way and sub-receiver box was a bit
>> difficult getting the SUBIN and SUBOUT boards to align and mate properly.
>
> I installed mine myself too. (And I just r/r recently with the
> addition of the gen coverage bp filters on the main board.) It is
> certainly fiddly. The mechanical design leaves much to be desired.
>
> 73, Christopher AI6KG.
>
> On Sun, Apr 16, 2017 at 4:27 AM, wa9fvp
<[hidden email]><mailto:[hidden email]%3e> wrote:
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[hidden email]<mailto:[hidden email]>

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Re: Sub Receiver & KBPF3

Grant Youngman-2

> Messing with the sub-receiver is such a PITA that I will procrastinate
> putting a new filter in for weeks before I gather the courage to pull it
> apart.  

I can't see spending the money for shipping and insurance, not to mention factory charges for relatively simple work, over fear of the sub receiver.

I've had mine in and out ( and in and out and ...) a bunch over the years and, while it might seem fiddly without a bit of patience and due care, never had a real issue with it.  It's always seemed to drop right in.  Had it out a few weeks ago for the 'n'th time to put the LF receive mods in.

Or maybe I've just had a lot of practice ? :)

Grant NQ5T
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Re: Sub Receiver & KBPF3

Bob Novas
Well, I guess my point is, it would be nice if it were less fiddly and more
"elegant".  A modular radio that came apart with a lot less fuss.  Plugin
boards.  It's a packaging problem.  

I love operating the radio.  I'm just not keen on maintaining it.

Bob - W3DK

-----Original Message-----
From: Elecraft [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Grant
Youngman
Sent: Wednesday, April 19, 2017 4:17 PM
To: [hidden email]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Sub Receiver & KBPF3


> Messing with the sub-receiver is such a PITA that I will procrastinate
> putting a new filter in for weeks before I gather the courage to pull
> it apart.

I can't see spending the money for shipping and insurance, not to mention
factory charges for relatively simple work, over fear of the sub receiver.

I've had mine in and out ( and in and out and ...) a bunch over the years
and, while it might seem fiddly without a bit of patience and due care,
never had a real issue with it.  It's always seemed to drop right in.  Had
it out a few weeks ago for the 'n'th time to put the LF receive mods in.

Or maybe I've just had a lot of practice ? :)

Grant NQ5T
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Re: Sub Receiver & KBPF3

ng7m
In reply to this post by Grant Youngman-2
I don't see what all the consternation is about either.  Its not that big
of a deal and I have the K3XREF (a little less room) in a K3s and a K3 and
both radios have the sub receiver.  Fiddly???
<https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=fiddly>
really?
I don't think so.  You need to consider the design!  This isn't a 60lb
transceiver we are talking about that you can't upgrade hardly at all.
The foot print and weight as compared to the performance can't be beat and
the modular design is very impressive.  It's a portable radio!  For real!
And if you want to talk PITA, try rolling a 60 lb radio around to remove
this, that or the other.

Taking out a couple of screws and gently lifting up the sub receiver and
remove the coax connections?  Sheesh... it's like it was the end of the
world or something.  Take a few pictures with your phone and take your time
and RTFM!.  Its not like there is a need to remove the sub receiver on a
weekly basis.  I swear, I think if you were to give a $20 bill to some
folks, they would complain that you didn't give them two $10 bills. :)
 Just take your time and install things back again and refer to your
pictures from your phone and did I mention RTFM?.  And on another note the
sub receiver as installed is solid and sound mechanically IMHO.

Maybe if I was 99 years old and my fingers were the size of uncooked
bratwursts and my thumbs were the size of cucumbers, then it would be
Fiddly (and I chewed my thumb and finger nails profusely).  I say move on
folks!  Off my soab box... it's getting Fiddly
<https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=fiddly>up
here!

Max NG7M
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Re: Sub Receiver & KBPF3

Guy Olinger K2AV
I get the "big hands in small spaces" complaint. I have very small
hands and can do some stuff that some of my friends just simply cannot
do. On the other hand there is no way I can swing a sledge hammer on a
ground rod like they can.

Ham friends that you can bribe with 807's and a backyard grill steak
dinner are very cool.

73, Guy K2AV

On Wed, Apr 19, 2017 at 4:47 PM, M. George <[hidden email]> wrote:

> I don't see what all the consternation is about either.  Its not that big
> of a deal and I have the K3XREF (a little less room) in a K3s and a K3 and
> both radios have the sub receiver.  Fiddly???
> <https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=fiddly>
> really?
> I don't think so.  You need to consider the design!  This isn't a 60lb
> transceiver we are talking about that you can't upgrade hardly at all.
> The foot print and weight as compared to the performance can't be beat and
> the modular design is very impressive.  It's a portable radio!  For real!
> And if you want to talk PITA, try rolling a 60 lb radio around to remove
> this, that or the other.
>
> Taking out a couple of screws and gently lifting up the sub receiver and
> remove the coax connections?  Sheesh... it's like it was the end of the
> world or something.  Take a few pictures with your phone and take your time
> and RTFM!.  Its not like there is a need to remove the sub receiver on a
> weekly basis.  I swear, I think if you were to give a $20 bill to some
> folks, they would complain that you didn't give them two $10 bills. :)
>  Just take your time and install things back again and refer to your
> pictures from your phone and did I mention RTFM?.  And on another note the
> sub receiver as installed is solid and sound mechanically IMHO.
>
> Maybe if I was 99 years old and my fingers were the size of uncooked
> bratwursts and my thumbs were the size of cucumbers, then it would be
> Fiddly (and I chewed my thumb and finger nails profusely).  I say move on
> folks!  Off my soab box... it's getting Fiddly
> <https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=fiddly>up
> here!
>
> Max NG7M
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Re: Sub Receiver & KBPF3

gm3sek
In reply to this post by Grant Youngman-2
>> Messing with the sub-receiver is such a PITA that I will
procrastinate
>> putting a new filter in for weeks before I gather the courage to pull
it
>> apart.
>
>I can't see spending the money for shipping and insurance, not to
mention
>factory charges for relatively simple work, over fear of the sub
receiver.
>
>I've had mine in and out ( and in and out and ...) a bunch over the
years and,
>while it might seem fiddly without a bit of patience and due care,
never had
>a real issue with it.  It's always seemed to drop right in.  Had it out
a few
>weeks ago for the 'n'th time to put the LF receive mods in.
>
>Or maybe I've just had a lot of practice ? :)
>
>Grant NQ5T

Grant is so right: practice counts for a lot. Procrastinating only
allows you to forget everything you learned the last time.

Along with training yourself, you are also 'training' the connector pins
into the correct locations for easier insertion the next time around.
The same applies to the bent-metal covers of the KRX3, which are
difficult to assemble the first time, but eventually become trained to
fit each other.

TL;DR version: As you get better, the job itself becomes easier as well.
So do it!

A few tips when replacing the KRX3:

0. Rule Zero of Elecraft assembly: All Parts Fit Exactly. If that
doesn't seem to be true, you don't have the parts aligned correctly yet.

1. Install the TMP connectors *before* attempting to mate the multi-pin
connectors. Use hemostats to handle the TMP connectors. 6in hemostats
(aka artery forceps) are very cheap on eBay. Use the locking handles to
grip the connector body at the correct angle for insertion, and feel for
the center pin. Be patient. When the center pin locates correctly, the
connector body will locate too. Now unlock the hemostat handles and use
the tips of the jaws to push the whole connector firmly into place. You
should distinctly feel the connector move inward.  

Again, this is all about practice. When you have learned what a
correctly seated TMP connector looks and *feels* like, you won't forget.

Also avoid removing or disturbing TMP connectors unnecessarily. A
surprising amount of work can be done while leaving them in place - but
always check them again after reassembly.

2. The multi-pin connector at the front right of the KRX3 aligns
*exactly* with the edges of the vertical adapter board. Memorize what
this should look like when correctly assembled. Ease this connector into
place first, but don't screw anything down yet.

3. The multi-pin connector at the rear left of the KRX3 is more
difficult to align. It is more difficult to see from above, and also its
adapter board can move away from the vertical. To see what you're doing,
remove the left side panel (see tip 5) and use a screwdriver to nudge
the adapter board into the correct position. Then the KRX3 will drop
easily into place. Look in from the left-hand side to check that *all*
of the pins are *correctly* mated.

4. Remember Rule Zero. If the KRX3 does not drop easily into place with
all connectors correctly mated, or if the long retaining screws passing
through the KRX3 don't immediately find the threaded pillars below...
then something is wrong. Go back.

5. Removing the side, top and bottom covers from a K3(S) is easy. If it
makes some other part of the job more easy to do, then don't hesitate.
Contrary to doctrine, you can use an electric screwdriver to remove
cover panels without damage - but on two conditions: (a) that you use
the correct Phillips screwdriver bit; and (b) you understand that an
"electric screwdriver" is a small, low-power tool that nestles in the
hand - not a drill-driver with a half-inch chuck!

But always go back to the manual screwdriver when inserting and
tightening screws. An electric screwdriver is *not* suitable for
tightening these small screws because there is a great risk of
over-tightening and causing damage. Over-tightened screws will also be
much more difficult to remove the next time. (Even if you own an
instrument-grade electric screwdriver with a clutch that is correctly
adjusted for these particular screws, you will still make mistakes.)

73 from Ian GM3SEK


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Re: Sub Receiver & KBPF3

Vic Rosenthal 4X6GP/K2VCO
In reply to this post by Grant Youngman-2
There are two 'secrets' for working on the subrx:
1. Take off the left side panel, even though you don't need to. Makes reinsertion much easier.
2. When plugging in the TMP cables, get the center conductor in before pushing hard on the outer part. If it is placed properly, it should go in with no trouble.

Vic 4X6GP

> On 19 Apr 2017, at 23:17, Grant Youngman <[hidden email]> wrote:
>
>
>> Messing with the sub-receiver is such a PITA that I will procrastinate
>> putting a new filter in for weeks before I gather the courage to pull it
>> apart.  
>
> I can't see spending the money for shipping and insurance, not to mention factory charges for relatively simple work, over fear of the sub receiver.
>
> I've had mine in and out ( and in and out and ...) a bunch over the years and, while it might seem fiddly without a bit of patience and due care, never had a real issue with it.  It's always seemed to drop right in.  Had it out a few weeks ago for the 'n'th time to put the LF receive mods in.
>
> Or maybe I've just had a lot of practice ? :)
>
> Grant NQ5T
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to [hidden email]
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Re: Sub Receiver & KBPF3

David Windisch
This post has NOT been accepted by the mailing list yet.
In reply to this post by wa9fvp

Several things work for me.
One is taking the subrx cover off first before attempting subrx removal, and replacing the cover after reinsertion.
Another is taking pics of the filter installations.
Ditto pics of hardware mods done, and installed hardware options, esp the hidden ones.
And writing in marker-pen, on the subrx cover, what's hidden inside, and hidden underneath the subrx, on the rf board.

Ymmv, naturally.
Brgds,
Dave, N3HE
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Re: Sub Receiver & KBPF3

Bill Frantz
In reply to this post by gm3sek
Ian has a lot of good advice below.

I have big hands -- I always look for the XL gloves -- and I
have removed the sub receiver in my K3 several times. In
fairness, I also knit socks using small needles, so I get
practice with small tools.

The only problems I had were getting the TMP connectors
connected. I had one the looked OK, but wasn't. Elecraft support
told me how to trace the signal through the sub and it became obvious.

There is a zen to working on physical things, whether it is cars
or K3s. Metal fasteners will tell you when you are over torquing
them as you stretch the metal. It will be elastic before it
takes on a permanent set or breaks and you can feel the
elasticity. You won't be able to feel the elasticity with an
electric screwdriver.

73 Bill AE6JV

On 4/20/17 at 1:16 AM, [hidden email] (Ian White) wrote:

>Grant is so right: practice counts for a lot. Procrastinating only
>allows you to forget everything you learned the last time.
>
>Along with training yourself, you are also 'training' the connector pins
>into the correct locations for easier insertion the next time around.
>The same applies to the bent-metal covers of the KRX3, which are
>difficult to assemble the first time, but eventually become trained to
>fit each other.
>
>TL;DR version: As you get better, the job itself becomes easier as well.
>So do it!
>
>A few tips when replacing the KRX3:
>
>0. Rule Zero of Elecraft assembly: All Parts Fit Exactly. If that
>doesn't seem to be true, you don't have the parts aligned correctly yet.
>
>1. Install the TMP connectors *before* attempting to mate the multi-pin
>connectors. Use hemostats to handle the TMP connectors. 6in hemostats
>(aka artery forceps) are very cheap on eBay. Use the locking handles to
>grip the connector body at the correct angle for insertion, and feel for
>the center pin. Be patient. When the center pin locates correctly, the
>connector body will locate too. Now unlock the hemostat handles and use
>the tips of the jaws to push the whole connector firmly into place. You
>should distinctly feel the connector move inward.
>Again, this is all about practice. When you have learned what a
>correctly seated TMP connector looks and *feels* like, you won't forget.
>
>Also avoid removing or disturbing TMP connectors unnecessarily. A
>surprising amount of work can be done while leaving them in place - but
>always check them again after reassembly.
>2. The multi-pin connector at the front right of the KRX3 aligns
>*exactly* with the edges of the vertical adapter board. Memorize what
>this should look like when correctly assembled. Ease this connector into
>place first, but don't screw anything down yet.
>
>3. The multi-pin connector at the rear left of the KRX3 is more
>difficult to align. It is more difficult to see from above, and also its
>adapter board can move away from the vertical. To see what you're doing,
>remove the left side panel (see tip 5) and use a screwdriver to nudge
>the adapter board into the correct position. Then the KRX3 will drop
>easily into place. Look in from the left-hand side to check that *all*
>of the pins are *correctly* mated.
>
>4. Remember Rule Zero. If the KRX3 does not drop easily into place with
>all connectors correctly mated, or if the long retaining screws passing
>through the KRX3 don't immediately find the threaded pillars below...
>then something is wrong. Go back.
>
>5. Removing the side, top and bottom covers from a K3(S) is easy. If it
>makes some other part of the job more easy to do, then don't hesitate.
>Contrary to doctrine, you can use an electric screwdriver to remove
>cover panels without damage - but on two conditions: (a) that you use
>the correct Phillips screwdriver bit; and (b) you understand that an
>"electric screwdriver" is a small, low-power tool that nestles in the
>hand - not a drill-driver with a half-inch chuck!
>But always go back to the manual screwdriver when inserting and
>tightening screws. An electric screwdriver is *not* suitable for
>tightening these small screws because there is a great risk of
>over-tightening and causing damage. Over-tightened screws will also be
>much more difficult to remove the next time. (Even if you own an
>instrument-grade electric screwdriver with a clutch that is correctly
>adjusted for these particular screws, you will still make mistakes.)
-----------------------------------------------------------------------
Bill Frantz        | I like the farmers' market   | Periwinkle
(408)356-8506      | because I can get fruits and | 16345
Englewood Ave
www.pwpconsult.com | vegetables without stickers. | Los Gatos,
CA 95032

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Post: mailto:[hidden email]

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RE: Sub Receiver & KBPF3

David Windisch
This post has NOT been accepted by the mailing list yet.

Hi, Bill:

Have benefited from Ian’s posts for years, tks.

It’s been instructive for me to search the archives for his and others’ posts from the past, when bands are dead.

Another thing I do occasionally with the K3 is

store the parameters,

reinitialize the K3,

see if I can get thru the parameter restoration process one menu-entry-setting at a time unaided. Heh heh.

It’s always good for some kicks, chuckles, and ho-hos, trying to rmbr, eg, how all those agc parameters were set, those sorts of things.

Sure is different, thank goodness, from Ol’ Ironsides, the late lamented BC779 Super Pro 120lb steelyard of my youth.

For another late lamented steelyard, look at 51.305413° n, 30.066100° e on ur fav 3D terrain viewer.

Brgds,

Dave, N3HE

 

From: Bill Frantz [via Elecraft] [mailto:[hidden email]]
Sent: Friday, April 21, 2017 11:30 PM
To: David Windisch
Subject: Re: Sub Receiver & KBPF3

 

Ian has a lot of good advice below.

I have big hands -- I always look for the XL gloves -- and I
have removed the sub receiver in my K3 several times. In
fairness, I also knit socks using small needles, so I get
practice with small tools.

The only problems I had were getting the TMP connectors
connected. I had one the looked OK, but wasn't. Elecraft support
told me how to trace the signal through the sub and it became obvious.

There is a zen to working on physical things, whether it is cars
or K3s. Metal fasteners will tell you when you are over torquing
them as you stretch the metal. It will be elastic before it
takes on a permanent set or breaks and you can feel the
elasticity. You won't be able to feel the elasticity with an
electric screwdriver.

73 Bill AE6JV

On 4/20/17 at 1:16 AM, [hidden email] (Ian White) wrote:


>Grant is so right: practice counts for a lot. Procrastinating only
>allows you to forget everything you learned the last time.
>
>Along with training yourself, you are also 'training' the connector pins
>into the correct locations for easier insertion the next time around.
>The same applies to the bent-metal covers of the KRX3, which are
>difficult to assemble the first time, but eventually become trained to
>fit each other.
>
>TL;DR version: As you get better, the job itself becomes easier as well.
>So do it!
>
>A few tips when replacing the KRX3:
>
>0. Rule Zero of Elecraft assembly: All Parts Fit Exactly. If that
>doesn't seem to be true, you don't have the parts aligned correctly yet.
>
>1. Install the TMP connectors *before* attempting to mate the multi-pin
>connectors. Use hemostats to handle the TMP connectors. 6in hemostats
>(aka artery forceps) are very cheap on eBay. Use the locking handles to
>grip the connector body at the correct angle for insertion, and feel for
>the center pin. Be patient. When the center pin locates correctly, the
>connector body will locate too. Now unlock the hemostat handles and use
>the tips of the jaws to push the whole connector firmly into place. You
>should distinctly feel the connector move inward.
>Again, this is all about practice. When you have learned what a
>correctly seated TMP connector looks and *feels* like, you won't forget.
>
>Also avoid removing or disturbing TMP connectors unnecessarily. A
>surprising amount of work can be done while leaving them in place - but
>always check them again after reassembly.
>2. The multi-pin connector at the front right of the KRX3 aligns
>*exactly* with the edges of the vertical adapter board. Memorize what
>this should look like when correctly assembled. Ease this connector into
>place first, but don't screw anything down yet.
>
>3. The multi-pin connector at the rear left of the KRX3 is more
>difficult to align. It is more difficult to see from above, and also its
>adapter board can move away from the vertical. To see what you're doing,
>remove the left side panel (see tip 5) and use a screwdriver to nudge
>the adapter board into the correct position. Then the KRX3 will drop
>easily into place. Look in from the left-hand side to check that *all*
>of the pins are *correctly* mated.
>
>4. Remember Rule Zero. If the KRX3 does not drop easily into place with
>all connectors correctly mated, or if the long retaining screws passing
>through the KRX3 don't immediately find the threaded pillars below...
>then something is wrong. Go back.
>
>5. Removing the side, top and bottom covers from a K3(S) is easy. If it
>makes some other part of the job more easy to do, then don't hesitate.
>Contrary to doctrine, you can use an electric screwdriver to remove
>cover panels without damage - but on two conditions: (a) that you use
>the correct Phillips screwdriver bit; and (b) you understand that an
>"electric screwdriver" is a small, low-power tool that nestles in the
>hand - not a drill-driver with a half-inch chuck!
>But always go back to the manual screwdriver when inserting and
>tightening screws. An electric screwdriver is *not* suitable for
>tightening these small screws because there is a great risk of
>over-tightening and causing damage. Over-tightened screws will also be
>much more difficult to remove the next time. (Even if you own an
>instrument-grade electric screwdriver with a clutch that is correctly
>adjusted for these particular screws, you will still make mistakes.)

-----------------------------------------------------------------------

Bill Frantz        | I like the farmers' market   | Periwinkle
(408)356-8506      | because I can get fruits and | 16345
Englewood Ave
www.pwpconsult.com | vegetables without stickers. | Los Gatos,
CA 95032

______________________________________________________________
Elecraft mailing list
Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
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Post: mailto:[hidden email]

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