Unsoldering

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Unsoldering

Mark Petrovic
I'm assembling an Elecraft K1, and get the distinct feeling that
unsoldering really is the last thing you want to be involved in.  I
have solder wick that has embedded flux, and I have a solder sucker
that seems huge compared to the size of the features I'm dealing with.
The wick works ok at getting some of the solder out, but not all of
it.  And a little bit of residual solder is still a major physical
blocker to correcting a misplaced component or bad joint.

I feel like I'm a pretty good solder-er, but I have not had good luck
with unsoldering.  Is it just me or does everyone have this problem?

Thanks.
Mark
AE6RT

--
Mark
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Re: Unsoldering

Kevin Stover
I thought the same thing when I built my K2/100.
As big as the solder sucker looks it does work. I had much more luck
with it compared to the solder braid.
Keep the soldering iron on the pad in question to keep the solder liquid
than stick the solder sucker on the other side of the pad from the iron
and hit the button.


On 2/20/2016 9:11 AM, Mark Petrovic wrote:

> I'm assembling an Elecraft K1, and get the distinct feeling that
> unsoldering really is the last thing you want to be involved in.  I
> have solder wick that has embedded flux, and I have a solder sucker
> that seems huge compared to the size of the features I'm dealing with.
> The wick works ok at getting some of the solder out, but not all of
> it.  And a little bit of residual solder is still a major physical
> blocker to correcting a misplaced component or bad joint.
>
> I feel like I'm a pretty good solder-er, but I have not had good luck
> with unsoldering.  Is it just me or does everyone have this problem?
>
> Thanks.
> Mark
> AE6RT
>


--
R. Kevin Stover
AC0H
ARRL
FISTS #11993
SKCC #215
NAQCC #3441


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Re: Unsoldering

lstavenhagen
In reply to this post by Mark Petrovic
Yes :). When I built my K2, I was just simply so careful that I didn't have to ever try to unsolder anything in it. I only had solder wick on hand and no solder sucker, but even with that, I absolutely dreaded the thought. Mouser has specialized solder sucker tools, but they're pricey...

73,
LS
W5QD
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Re: Unsoldering

Elecraft mailing list
In reply to this post by Mark Petrovic
I have been in the manufacturing process for a LONG time and the rework stations used in SMT parts is a state of art with custom equipment for the process,  Tips that are the exact size of the parts to heat up each end are necessary for all part sizes down to 02-01 package and all of the IC's with special square tips etc. Special soldering irons and vacuum rework stations.   Only simple rework should be attempted without the special tools required.  Sorry no easy answer. 

Mel, K6KBE


      From: Mark Petrovic <[hidden email]>
 To: [hidden email]
 Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2016 7:11 AM
 Subject: [Elecraft] Unsoldering
   
I'm assembling an Elecraft K1, and get the distinct feeling that
unsoldering really is the last thing you want to be involved in.  I
have solder wick that has embedded flux, and I have a solder sucker
that seems huge compared to the size of the features I'm dealing with.
The wick works ok at getting some of the solder out, but not all of
it.  And a little bit of residual solder is still a major physical
blocker to correcting a misplaced component or bad joint.

I feel like I'm a pretty good solder-er, but I have not had good luck
with unsoldering.  Is it just me or does everyone have this problem?

Thanks.
Mark
AE6RT

--
Mark
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Re: Unsoldering

thelastdb
I think too that having a soldering iron with a large enough tip and therefore heat capacity to transfer heat to the joint as quickly as possible is advantageous. Many times I have grabbed the giant Weller gun to free the leads of the most stubborn components. Having a "Spudger" helps. (A Bell/AT&T tool with a metal hook).

Myron WVØH
Printed on Recycled Data

> On Feb 20, 2016, at 8:23 AM, Mel Farrer via Elecraft <[hidden email]> wrote:
>
> I have been in the manufacturing process for a LONG time and the rework stations used in SMT parts is a state of art with custom equipment for the process,  Tips that are the exact size of the parts to heat up each end are necessary for all part sizes down to 02-01 package and all of the IC's with special square tips etc. Special soldering irons and vacuum rework stations.   Only simple rework should be attempted without the special tools required.  Sorry no easy answer.  
>
> Mel, K6KBE
>
>
>      From: Mark Petrovic <[hidden email]>
> To: [hidden email]
> Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2016 7:11 AM
> Subject: [Elecraft] Unsoldering
>
> I'm assembling an Elecraft K1, and get the distinct feeling that
> unsoldering really is the last thing you want to be involved in.  I
> have solder wick that has embedded flux, and I have a solder sucker
> that seems huge compared to the size of the features I'm dealing with.
> The wick works ok at getting some of the solder out, but not all of
> it.  And a little bit of residual solder is still a major physical
> blocker to correcting a misplaced component or bad joint.
>
> I feel like I'm a pretty good solder-er, but I have not had good luck
> with unsoldering.  Is it just me or does everyone have this problem?
>
> Thanks.
> Mark
> AE6RT
>
> --
> Mark
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to [hidden email]
>
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________
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> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
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Re: Unsoldering

Kevin Stover
In reply to this post by Elecraft mailing list
He's building a K1 (no SMT parts) not a computer motherboard.


On 2/20/2016 9:23 AM, Mel Farrer via Elecraft wrote:

> I have been in the manufacturing process for a LONG time and the rework stations used in SMT parts is a state of art with custom equipment for the process,  Tips that are the exact size of the parts to heat up each end are necessary for all part sizes down to 02-01 package and all of the IC's with special square tips etc. Special soldering irons and vacuum rework stations.   Only simple rework should be attempted without the special tools required.  Sorry no easy answer.
>
> Mel, K6KBE
>
>
>        From: Mark Petrovic <[hidden email]>
>   To: [hidden email]
>   Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2016 7:11 AM
>   Subject: [Elecraft] Unsoldering
>    
> I'm assembling an Elecraft K1, and get the distinct feeling that
> unsoldering really is the last thing you want to be involved in.  I
> have solder wick that has embedded flux, and I have a solder sucker
> that seems huge compared to the size of the features I'm dealing with.
> The wick works ok at getting some of the solder out, but not all of
> it.  And a little bit of residual solder is still a major physical
> blocker to correcting a misplaced component or bad joint.
>
> I feel like I'm a pretty good solder-er, but I have not had good luck
> with unsoldering.  Is it just me or does everyone have this problem?
>
> Thanks.
> Mark
> AE6RT
>


--
R. Kevin Stover
AC0H
ARRL
FISTS #11993
SKCC #215
NAQCC #3441


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Re: Unsoldering

Elecraft mailing list
Sorry, never built a K1.   Back in my hole.
Mel, K6KBE


      From: Kevin Stover <[hidden email]>
 To: [hidden email]
 Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2016 7:40 AM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Unsoldering
   
He's building a K1 (no SMT parts) not a computer motherboard.


On 2/20/2016 9:23 AM, Mel Farrer via Elecraft wrote:

> I have been in the manufacturing process for a LONG time and the rework stations used in SMT parts is a state of art with custom equipment for the process,  Tips that are the exact size of the parts to heat up each end are necessary for all part sizes down to 02-01 package and all of the IC's with special square tips etc. Special soldering irons and vacuum rework stations.  Only simple rework should be attempted without the special tools required.  Sorry no easy answer.
>
> Mel, K6KBE
>
>
>        From: Mark Petrovic <[hidden email]>
>  To: [hidden email]
>  Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2016 7:11 AM
>  Subject: [Elecraft] Unsoldering
>   
> I'm assembling an Elecraft K1, and get the distinct feeling that
> unsoldering really is the last thing you want to be involved in.  I
> have solder wick that has embedded flux, and I have a solder sucker
> that seems huge compared to the size of the features I'm dealing with.
> The wick works ok at getting some of the solder out, but not all of
> it.  And a little bit of residual solder is still a major physical
> blocker to correcting a misplaced component or bad joint.
>
> I feel like I'm a pretty good solder-er, but I have not had good luck
> with unsoldering.  Is it just me or does everyone have this problem?
>
> Thanks.
> Mark
> AE6RT
>


--
R. Kevin Stover
AC0H
ARRL
FISTS #11993
SKCC #215
NAQCC #3441


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Re: Unsoldering

ae5ka
Using solder wicks and cheap solder suckers is tough. After I got a Hakko
808 desoldering kit, a world of difference, made removing soldered
components and making sure the pcb board hole was open for the replacement
almost trivial. I know, they are expensive. Maybe you could borrow one if
you aren't frequently doing that kind of stuff.

Chip
AE5KA

On Sat, Feb 20, 2016 at 10:00 AM, Mel Farrer via Elecraft <
[hidden email]> wrote:

> Sorry, never built a K1.   Back in my hole.
> Mel, K6KBE
>
>
>       From: Kevin Stover <[hidden email]>
>  To: [hidden email]
>  Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2016 7:40 AM
>  Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Unsoldering
>
> He's building a K1 (no SMT parts) not a computer motherboard.
>
>
> On 2/20/2016 9:23 AM, Mel Farrer via Elecraft wrote:
> > I have been in the manufacturing process for a LONG time and the rework
> stations used in SMT parts is a state of art with custom equipment for the
> process,  Tips that are the exact size of the parts to heat up each end are
> necessary for all part sizes down to 02-01 package and all of the IC's with
> special square tips etc. Special soldering irons and vacuum rework
> stations.  Only simple rework should be attempted without the special tools
> required.  Sorry no easy answer.
> >
> > Mel, K6KBE
> >
> >
> >        From: Mark Petrovic <[hidden email]>
> >  To: [hidden email]
> >  Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2016 7:11 AM
> >  Subject: [Elecraft] Unsoldering
> >
> > I'm assembling an Elecraft K1, and get the distinct feeling that
> > unsoldering really is the last thing you want to be involved in.  I
> > have solder wick that has embedded flux, and I have a solder sucker
> > that seems huge compared to the size of the features I'm dealing with.
> > The wick works ok at getting some of the solder out, but not all of
> > it.  And a little bit of residual solder is still a major physical
> > blocker to correcting a misplaced component or bad joint.
> >
> > I feel like I'm a pretty good solder-er, but I have not had good luck
> > with unsoldering.  Is it just me or does everyone have this problem?
> >
> > Thanks.
> > Mark
> > AE6RT
> >
>
>
> --
> R. Kevin Stover
> AC0H
> ARRL
> FISTS #11993
> SKCC #215
> NAQCC #3441
>
>
> ---
> This email has been checked for viruses by Avast antivirus software.
> https://www.avast.com/antivirus
>
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>
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________
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Unsoldering

Edward A. Dauer
In reply to this post by Mark Petrovic
Same here, on the K2 (and related accessories.)  The spring-loaded solder
sucker worked FB for me, used just as Kevin describes.  On a couple of
occasions I had to do it from both sides of the board to get everything
clean.  I also found it the case that shouting a familiar four-letter
expletive immediately upon realizing that the error had been made was
strongly associated with success in doing the fix.  There is no
theoretical reason why that should be so, but the correlation is
empirically perfect.

Ted, KN1CBR


>------------------------------
>
>Message: 24
>Date: Sat, 20 Feb 2016 09:21:20 -0600
>From: Kevin Stover <[hidden email]>
>To: [hidden email]
>Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Unsoldering
>Message-ID: <[hidden email]>
>Content-Type: text/plain; charset=windows-1252; format=flowed
>
>I thought the same thing when I built my K2/100.
>As big as the solder sucker looks it does work. I had much more luck
>with it compared to the solder braid.
>Keep the soldering iron on the pad in question to keep the solder liquid
>than stick the solder sucker on the other side of the pad from the iron
>and hit the button.
>
>
>On 2/20/2016 9:11 AM, Mark Petrovic wrote:
>> I'm assembling an Elecraft K1, and get the distinct feeling that
>> unsoldering really is the last thing you want to be involved in.  I
>> have solder wick that has embedded flux, and I have a solder sucker
>> that seems huge compared to the size of the features I'm dealing with.
>> The wick works ok at getting some of the solder out, but not all of
>> it.  And a little bit of residual solder is still a major physical
>> blocker to correcting a misplaced component or bad joint.
>>
>> I feel like I'm a pretty good solder-er, but I have not had good luck
>> with unsoldering.  Is it just me or does everyone have this problem?
>>
>> Thanks.
>> Mark
>> AE6RT
>>
>
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Re: Unsoldering

K9ZTV
In reply to this post by ae5ka
A hearty second on the Hakko 808.  Every builder needs one.  Slicker than wet sn*t on a door knob.

K9ZTV


> On Feb 20, 2016, at 10:16 AM, Chip Stratton <[hidden email]> wrote:
>
> Using solder wicks and cheap solder suckers is tough. After I got a Hakko
> 808 desoldering kit, a world of difference, made removing soldered
> components and making sure the pcb board hole was open for the replacement
> almost trivial. I know, they are expensive. Maybe you could borrow one if
> you aren't frequently doing that kind of stuff.
>
> Chip
> AE5KA
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Re: Unsoldering

Reuben Popp
In reply to this post by Mark Petrovic
I too was overly careful when I built my K2 back around 2006 or so.  That's
not to say I didn't make mistakes :D.   I did, however, take some advice to
heart when assembling it (I believe it came from the website or the
manual), in that for a section, I would add all the components, bending
their leads to stay in place and then come back to solder after checking
things again.  As to whether this helped prevent mistakes, I can't really
say for certain, but I will say I was lucky enough to not experience many
issues with my build.  Anyway, I digress...

I was lucky enough at the time to inherit a Pace desoldering unit (a
MBT-100 in fact) that came from the old circuits course at the local
college.  For through-hole type projects, those things are a godsend.  I
still have it too, having just replaced the handset along with acquiring a
handful of new tips.  If you have it in the budget (and plan on doing more
kits), I highly recommend keeping an eye out for one.  They're discontinued
now from Pace, but there's still plenty out there with lots of life left in
them and parts are available if you look.

That said, I think I used that thing more than not as my "skill" with wick
has only really come to fruition in recent times.

Good luck
Reuben

On Sat, Feb 20, 2016 at 9:11 AM, Mark Petrovic <[hidden email]> wrote:

> I'm assembling an Elecraft K1, and get the distinct feeling that
> unsoldering really is the last thing you want to be involved in.  I
> have solder wick that has embedded flux, and I have a solder sucker
> that seems huge compared to the size of the features I'm dealing with.
> The wick works ok at getting some of the solder out, but not all of
> it.  And a little bit of residual solder is still a major physical
> blocker to correcting a misplaced component or bad joint.
>
> I feel like I'm a pretty good solder-er, but I have not had good luck
> with unsoldering.  Is it just me or does everyone have this problem?
>
> Thanks.
> Mark
> AE6RT
>
> --
> Mark
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to [hidden email]
>
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Re: Unsoldering

wayne burdick
Administrator
For further tips, some of which are not described in the literature, see:

    http://www.qsotoday.com/n6kr-desolder-primer.html

Wayne
N6KR


>> ...[I] get the distinct feeling that
>> unsoldering really is the last thing you want to be involved in....


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Re: Unsoldering

Elecraft mailing list
In reply to this post by Mark Petrovic
And as a last resort, cut the leads and then clean out the bad parts and leads.  Even the best rework gal will not try to save a multi-leaded part.  Too much risk of damage to the PCB. 

Mel, K6KBE


      From: Ron D'Eau Claire <[hidden email]>
 To: [hidden email]
 Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2016 9:28 AM
 Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Unsoldering
   
Ha, ha!!! But the beer was NOT wasted. It was the one sure-fire benefit of
the exercise.

Removing parts with a solder sucker, especially those with multiple "leads"
(some as many as ten) without destroying either the board or part I find
it's common for a very thin layer of solder to remain after "sucking" the
hole clean. The remaining film of solder is easily broken by wiggling the
part.

73, Ron AC7AC

-----Original Message-----
From: Elecraft [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of Wayne
Burdick
Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2016 9:01 AM
To: Reuben Popp; Mark Petrovic
Cc: [hidden email]
Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Unsoldering

For further tips, some of which are not described in the literature, see:

    http://www.qsotoday.com/n6kr-desolder-primer.html

Wayne
N6KR


>> ...[I] get the distinct feeling that
>> unsoldering really is the last thing you want to be involved in....


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Re: Unsoldering

Reuben Popp
In reply to this post by wayne burdick
Hah!  Needless to say that beer consumed is beer not wasted, yes?  Unless,
that is, it's something like Hamms (Schlitz lovers I'm looking your way
too), at which point it can hardly be considered beer, right?

Those other tips are a hoot.  I know for one in working on really old stuff
there's been times where a blob of solder would sit there and taunt me (or
my iron) more or less.  Talk about infuriating.  It's all fun and games
until the American Beauty has to come out.  I would hate to "test" one of
those suckers on my skin.  Yeee-ouch!

On Sat, Feb 20, 2016 at 11:28 AM, Ron D'Eau Claire <[hidden email]> wrote:

> Ha, ha!!! But the beer was NOT wasted. It was the one sure-fire benefit of
> the exercise.
>
> Removing parts with a solder sucker, especially those with multiple "leads"
> (some as many as ten) without destroying either the board or part I find
> it's common for a very thin layer of solder to remain after "sucking" the
> hole clean. The remaining film of solder is easily broken by wiggling the
> part.
>
> 73, Ron AC7AC
>
> -----Original Message-----
> From: Elecraft [mailto:[hidden email]] On Behalf Of
> Wayne
> Burdick
> Sent: Saturday, February 20, 2016 9:01 AM
> To: Reuben Popp; Mark Petrovic
> Cc: [hidden email]
> Subject: Re: [Elecraft] Unsoldering
>
> For further tips, some of which are not described in the literature, see:
>
>     http://www.qsotoday.com/n6kr-desolder-primer.html
>
> Wayne
> N6KR
>
>
> >> ...[I] get the distinct feeling that
> >> unsoldering really is the last thing you want to be involved in....
>
>
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> delivered to [hidden email]
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Re: Unsoldering

EricJ-2
In reply to this post by wayne burdick
I use Wayne's techniques, and usually in that order. Surrender is not an
option.

Then I remember a trick I've known since my first encounter with PCs and
solder wick. Reflow the joint with fresh solder. Wick that away. It
usually leaves a nice clean hole. Sometimes, I reflow the joint more
than once being careful not to overheat the area.

  If it isn't clean enough to insert the new component, use a stainless
steel needle to gently poke through the hole. Don't forget there may be
a delicate via that will come out with too much force.

I use an upholstery needle that is about 10" long. It keeps your fingers
out of the way so you can see what you're doing. And it doesn't get lost
on the bench as easily as small needles. To aid that, I slipped a piece
of flourescent lime parachute cord over the non-business end to make it
look more like a tool with a handle.

Eric
KE6US

On 2/20/2016 9:01 AM, Wayne Burdick wrote:

> For further tips, some of which are not described in the literature, see:
>
>      http://www.qsotoday.com/n6kr-desolder-primer.html
>
> Wayne
> N6KR
>
>
>>> ...[I] get the distinct feeling that
>>> unsoldering really is the last thing you want to be involved in....
>
> ______________________________________________________________
> Elecraft mailing list
> Home: http://mailman.qth.net/mailman/listinfo/elecraft
> Help: http://mailman.qth.net/mmfaq.htm
> Post: mailto:[hidden email]
>
> This list hosted by: http://www.qsl.net
> Please help support this email list: http://www.qsl.net/donate.html
> Message delivered to [hidden email]
>
>

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Re: Unsoldering

wayne burdick
Administrator
In reply to this post by Elecraft mailing list
I really should update the Desoldering Primer to mention Chip-Quik. I've used it to remove 100-pin TQFPs with no damage to the parts or the PCB. It's really cool stuff.

Wayne
N6KR


On Feb 20, 2016, at 9:36 AM, Mel Farrer via Elecraft <[hidden email]> wrote:

> And as a last resort, cut the leads and then clean out the bad parts and leads.  Even the best rework gal will not try to save a multi-leaded part.  Too much risk of damage to the PCB.  
>
> Mel, K6KBE



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Re: Unsoldering

Don Wilhelm-4
In reply to this post by Mark Petrovic
While unsoldering is not something you purposely wish to do, it
sometimes is inevitable.
When you are faced with that necessity, remember that the most valuable
part is the board - avoid damage to the board at all costs.
Elecraft boards are constructed with thru-plated holes, so be careful
that the solder pad on both sides of the board is preserved - DO NOT
drill out the holes.  Those thru-plated holes are often used not only to
solder the component lead, but also to continue the circuit from one
side of the board to the other, so preserving the thru-plated hole and
solder pads is important.

If you do not have de-soldering tools to accomplish the task, or you
have tried what you have and it was not successful, forget about
salvaging the part.  New parts are inexpensive compared with the
investment in the board and the other mounted parts.  *Sacrifice* the part.

For two (and sometimes 3) lead components, you can heat each lead
alternately while slowly working the part out of the holes in the board.
For multi-legged critters, use flush cutters and clip the lead as close
to the body as possible, then heat each of the remaining leads and
remove them one at a time.  For relays and other parts that cover the
leads on the component side, use pliers or whatever tool works and crush
the body of the component so you can remove the leads one at a time.

Once you have removed the leads, clean up the remaining solder with
solder wick.  If additional solder remains in the hole, use a wooden
toothpick (or a stainless steel needle), heat the solder pad and push
the remaining solder out of the hole - task accomplished.

Even though I have a Hakko 808 which is usually successful for removing
the solder and the part intact, there are times I resort the destroying
the part and cleaning up the holes with a stainless steel probe that I
keep handy.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/20/2016 10:11 AM, Mark Petrovic wrote:

> I'm assembling an Elecraft K1, and get the distinct feeling that
> unsoldering really is the last thing you want to be involved in.  I
> have solder wick that has embedded flux, and I have a solder sucker
> that seems huge compared to the size of the features I'm dealing with.
> The wick works ok at getting some of the solder out, but not all of
> it.  And a little bit of residual solder is still a major physical
> blocker to correcting a misplaced component or bad joint.
>
> I feel like I'm a pretty good solder-er, but I have not had good luck
> with unsoldering.  Is it just me or does everyone have this problem?
>

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Re: Unsoldering

Botterell Art
In reply to this post by wayne burdick
Chip-Quik looks very handy.  Quite clever.  Thanks for the pointer, Wayne!

73,

Art KD6O

> On Feb 20, 2016, at 09:50, Wayne Burdick <[hidden email]> wrote:
>
> I really should update the Desoldering Primer to mention Chip-Quik. I've used it to remove 100-pin TQFPs with no damage to the parts or the PCB. It's really cool stuff.
>
> Wayne
> N6KR


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Re: Unsoldering

Don Wilhelm-4
In reply to this post by wayne burdick
Chip-Quik is great stuff for multi-leaded SMD components.
I don't use it on SMD components that have a small number of leads.
Those with 2 leads, I heat the leads alternately until the component has
absorbed enough heat to allow it to literally float off the pads.
Those components with leads formed so I can get a *very* thin knife
blade tip under the lead, I can start at one end and heat the pad until
the tip of my knife can lift the lead off the pad.   Note that I have
sharpened my pocket knife for many years and the blade has a tip which
is more slender than the most narrow Exacto knife.

If those techniques will not work, I use Chip-Quik.  The only downside
to Chip-Quik is that *all* the Chip-Quik residue and special flux must
be cleaned up or the new solder will not stick.

73,
Don W3FPR

On 2/20/2016 12:50 PM, Wayne Burdick wrote:

> I really should update the Desoldering Primer to mention Chip-Quik. I've used it to remove 100-pin TQFPs with no damage to the parts or the PCB. It's really cool stuff.
>
> Wayne
> N6KR
>
>
> On Feb 20, 2016, at 9:36 AM, Mel Farrer via Elecraft <[hidden email]> wrote:
>
>> And as a last resort, cut the leads and then clean out the bad parts and leads.  Even the best rework gal will not try to save a multi-leaded part.  Too much risk of damage to the PCB.
>>
>> Mel, K6KBE
>
>
> ______________________________________________________________
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Re: Unsoldering

Edward R Cole
In reply to this post by Mark Petrovic
Mark,

I have not built a K1 so do not know how it is designed.  If you are
wanting to remove surface-mount components the simple method is to
first wick excess solder away and then use two solder irons on either
end of the device to unsolder and lift the component.

If this thru-hole construction then resistors and capacitors should
not be too difficult to unsolder each lead at a time.  Removing
leaded transistors can be tough.  Sometimes one has to just clip the
leads and remove the transistor and then remove each lead remnant
individually with a solder iron.  The transistor is usually junk if
you do that.  A solder-sucker is handy with small leaded devices.

High power transistors with large metal "ears" can be a
challenge.  One needs a high power solder iron with large tip.  Heat
and remove solder with wick then use knife edge to lift a lead while
heating with solder iron.  Once enough is lifted a flat screwdriver
can help lift the rest.  Caution that applying heat too long can
cause high power transistor failure.

All this is a good reason to double-check installation in the first
place.  But have been there and done it.

73, Ed - KL7UW

From: Mark Petrovic <[hidden email]>
To: [hidden email]
Subject: [Elecraft] Unsoldering


I'm assembling an Elecraft K1, and get the distinct feeling that
unsoldering really is the last thing you want to be involved in.  I
have solder wick that has embedded flux, and I have a solder sucker
that seems huge compared to the size of the features I'm dealing with.
The wick works ok at getting some of the solder out, but not all of
it.  And a little bit of residual solder is still a major physical
blocker to correcting a misplaced component or bad joint.

I feel like I'm a pretty good solder-er, but I have not had good luck
with unsoldering.  Is it just me or does everyone have this problem?

Thanks.
Mark
AE6RT



73, Ed - KL7UW
http://www.kl7uw.com
     "Kits made by KL7UW"
Dubus Mag business:
     [hidden email]

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